13th by Ava Duvernay:

13th  is an insightful documentary distributed by Netflix and directed by Ava Duvernay, that explores the development of modern slavery in 21st century America and several features of today’s American society such as race, justice and mass incarceration. 

A little word about the director, Ava Duvernay is a former publicist that changed career path to become a film director. She started with the production of documentaries because of their obvious lower costs and made it to direct the 100$ production, a Wrinkle in Time. An engaged and passionate storyteller of the history of race in the United States, her films and documentaries evolve around this cause to which she has become a major spokesperson. Ava’s movies have been nominated in several major festivals and prizes, and her name is today associated with the Duvernay Test that monitors racial diversity in Hollywood productions.

While watching Michael Moore’s documentary “Where to Invade Next?”, my attention towards the issue of mass incarceration and inhuman conditions in prisons was raised for the very first time. Moore goes to Norway (among other countries) to explore their prison system. He is completely puzzled by the fact that Norway prisons are a dignified space for prisoners that are not deprived from their humanity, but only from their liberty because of the crimes they committed. He is also surprised by the whole philosophy of prisons in the Nordic country: in Norway, prisoners are not humiliated for their crimes but simply put in “prisons” (that by the way look nothing like actual prisons with all the facilities that you could find in a 3 stars hotel) to reflect about the crimes they committed and pay their duty to society.

In that sense, the United States differ tremendously from Norway, and probably from the rest of the world for that matter. The 13th amendment of the US Constitution states the abolition of slavery, only under one circumstance: punishement. “Neither slavery nor involuntary servitude, except as a punishment for crime whereof the party shall have been duly convicted, shall exist within the United States, or any place subject to their jurisdiction.” Hence technically making any convicted felon a slave.

The documentary opens up with a very interesting statistic enunciated by President Obama: the United States make up 5% of world population and yet is home to 25% of world total prisoners population. In other words, one out of four persons that are behind bars today in the whole world is from the United States. The film then goes to investigate the history behind the current state of affairs that translates mass incarceration in the United States. After the civil war, the southern part of the country was devastated and needed labor force in order to economically reconstruct. The loopwhole of the 13 amendment was exploited in order to provide a helping hand, but also to align with the still standing racist beliefs and ideals.

 

Several tools were used in order to reinforce the white superiority ideology, such as art. The widely acclaimed motion picture movie “birth of a nation” was powerful in perpetuating the stereotypes of black violent man that rapes white women and that needs a correction through punishment and slavery. The movie was widely acclaimed and has contributed to the foundation of this biased justice system. It has also reinvigorated the mobs against black people and their public collective slaughter. As a result of this massive wave of terrorism were issued the Jim Crow laws of segregation.

Closer to our times, the documentary focuses on the policies of two presidents, Nixon and Reagan. The “law and order” doctrine, meant to reassure the american population to security matters has been used extensively as an electoral argument. Beyond the elections, a lot of their presidency has focused on law enforcement through mass incarceration and war on drugs. Instead of focusing on citizen’s real matters such as poverty, housing, employment that really created the “security issue”, they focused on dealing with the outcomes of the vicious cycle of poverty, especially in black communities.

War on drugs was a particular feature of the 80-90. It has criminalized drug possession and consumption extensively. Crack users which were more predominant in black communities were extensively hunted. This emphasis on crack was biased, especially because crack has the same molecular composition as cocaine and yet are not penalized the same way, cocaine being widely used among social elite and wall street golden boys.

The documentary also tackles the incestuous relationship of American elected officials and the lobbying association ALEC, the American Legislative Exchange Commision that influences and sometimes dictates policies according to the interests of large powerful multinationals. This is tightly linked to the gun industry but most particularly to the CCA , a private correction company that makes money out of keeping prisons full and influencing state legislative and justice system in order to make it more likely to imprison people for a very long time and for very minor crimes. Beyond this, prisoners are also subject to forced labor for major multinationals in prisons, hence modern slavery.

13th explores the several steps in the evolution of race issues, justice and prison systems and makes the point throughout this journey that there will always be another form of slavery and injustice in minority communities if their is no awareness and appeased leadership that can bring people together. Unfortunately, the Trump administration and the divisive rhetoric and policies, and the particular racist nature his electoral campaign, drives away this ideal more and more every day.

The documentary encourages citizens to take the advantages of the modern world such as social media in order to force the conversation about race and justice.

 

Ce Vain Combat que tu Livres au Monde by Fouad Laroui:

I already had a pretty high opinion of Fouad Laroui as a writer and a social and political analyst. His book “Les Tribulations du Derniers Sijlmassi” have made me reflect deeply on a matter that I was already fascinated about: the overwhelming relationship between individuals and technology. I have discovered with delight the spirited writing style of Laroui, full of intellectual humor but deeply thought-provoking. “Ce Vain Combat que tu Livres au Monde”  is another masterpiece by this prolific writer, whom I think I can easily call my favorite Moroccan author.

“Ce Vain Combat que tu Livres au Monde” although on a totally different topic, shows the mastery of Laroui and his storytelling skills on a wide range of issues, and specifically the sensitive topic of radical extremism and terrorism.

The novel recounts the story of  Malika and Ali, a couple that decide to move in together. Malika is a native French from Moroccan parents, and Ali is a Moroccan that has been living in France for several years since he came to study in Paris. He is a brilliant IT engineer. The project proposal he elaborated is going to the next level as the company he is working for is going to be approved as a contractor. Although Ali was the project lead and by far the most qualified person to implement it, he is going to be dismissed brutally. When he tries to dig deeper on the reason, he discovers that since the project involved governmental security and defense, his name was automatically rejected because he is Muslim, Arab and Moroccan: three serious charges.

The feeling of injustice will lead to a severe depression that will make Ali re-question his whole identity. He will develop, with the influence of his cousin Brahim, a visceral hate of the West and although Ali has never been “practicing his faith”, he will develop radical thoughts. Religion has never been a relevant matter to him, but now he perceives it as the solution to his misery.

Enough about the narrative, I do not want to spoil it, although the landscape clearly shows the development of the story. Ok, whatever, I will spoil it. Ali is going to join the “Islamic Caliphate”, and eventually decide that it is not what he signed up for. Unfortunately, the story obviously ends on a very tragic note.

Filled up with events that you would naturally expect from this frustrating work issue (Ali changing towards his partner, denial of previous behavior such as drinking alcohol, questioning gender roles…), the narrative is often interrupted with background history of  the Arab people: the division of Middle East through the Sykes Picot agreements, the betrayal of Lawrence of Arabia, the promise of Balfour, the Golden Age of Islam and the Western perspective of world history…

My analysis is that these events are not recounted to justify the mess of the Middle East and to blame it all on the West and their numerous manipulations on the region, but rather to give a framework of analysis for readers. What I appreciated about the novel is that it never falls in judgments or taking sides. Instead of this, Laroui explores and digs deeper in every arguments of both sides. When you think he takes on side, he flips the coin to show you another perspective.

This story is fictive, but it could as well have been the story of the thousands of youth that join the “Islamic State” out of frustration and despair, only to realize later on that it was a stupid idea. This novel is moving because it raises questions without answers. How can young people feel so miserable as to identify with the “ideals” of ISIS? How can they express  protest through taking the lives of innocent people? How can there be so much frustration and hate in the world? When did this even happen?

The novel closes on the attacks in Paris in November 2015. We all have witnessed the scenes of horror at the terraces of cafes. However, I felt that a written insight, although imaginary, was much more terrifying. They say an image is worth a thousand words.. When the words are just, words are worth a thousand images.

Novel is highly recommended. It gives a deep insight in France’s contemporary identity and social issues related to immigration, religion and secularism. It also gives an independent overview on Arab history without linking the dots, giving freedom to readers to interpret, decode, and evaluate.

 

 

La La Land:

Ryan Gosling, with all objectivity, is reason enough for watching a movie, whatever movie. I have not seen this one’s trailer, nor read any reviews about it. The only thing I knew is that it won a Golden Globe Award. As much as I know that it usually isn’t the only criteria for a movie’s quality, my little mind was still influenced.

I go to the movies, it has already started, and the scene opens on a busy traffic, with people dancing and singing about how beautiful that day is. My reaction is panic. First, I’m  I going to watch a cheesy musical? Second, where is Ryan Gosling?

I am anxious and all I think about while those people sing with stupid smiles on their faces is I am probably going to leave before the movie ends. It didn’t happen, I was hooked in the first 10 minutes (after the first scene, which is quite frankly misleading on the quality of the movie).

Moving on, La La Land is the poetic story of two passionate individuals, that love their art more than anything else in the world, and that want to live from it, or in other words, to “make it”.  Mia is an actress, a good one, but she accumulates audition over audition without any chance. She performs incredible, and when you think she is getting the role, she gets interrupted by a lunch or coffee break. Sebastian is a jazz fanatic and musician that wants to open his own club to re-acquaint people with real jazz.

Their encounter that will turn into romance fairly quickly, is going to be the bedrock of their motivation and dreams. Both are going to support one another. When one is feeling full of doubts, the other is going to put a check on the negative thoughts.

 

More than that, La La Land is a celebration of passion and an ode to dreaming. Beyond the love that bounds Mia and Sebastian, both are committed first to their dreams and decide that they have almost a moral obligation to pursue them when a chance is offered. This is why they will not end up together, despite both eventually achieving what they aim for. Their success is not going to create any resentment because both of them manage to reach their goal, although their uneven progress throughout the movie clearly demonstrates hidden blame, jealousy and judgement.

On the technical side, I was really appealed by the unusual shootings, and scene development. Beyond the delicate breezy music, it feels the movie was elaborated to look like a dream. A messy dream that still leaves you satisfied. The last scene is particularly breathtaking. Mia made it in her actress career, she is walking in LA with her husband and then stops by Seb’s, Sebastian’s jazz place. The scene development is magical. It takes you back and forth into doubting wether all this was just an illusion and she actually ended up with Sebastian but she didn’t. You can feel their pain as they exchange one last look when Mia leaves Seb’s. At the same time, they are grateful to one another, because without this encounter, they probably wouldn’t have fulfilled their destiny.

 

Favorite scene ever from this movie. Mia and Sebastian go to the Planetarium at night. They dance until they end up around the stars. Absolutely breathtaking.

A Trip to Peru:

It is easy now, after the trip, to think of a hundred and one reason why Peru is an amazing destination. To be completely fair, I chose Peru as randomly as I choose all my destinations. Most remote, most unknown, with the highest probability of maximizing new knowledge, information and interactions. Before the trip, my knowledge of Peru was limited to the Disney cartoon Cusco, fun facts about Lamas and Machu Pichu being one of the world’s wonders. Ok, I am exaggerating. I have done research after choosing Peru, and mostly about contemporary history and local culture, and organized a nice itinerary around Southern Peru, that included Lima, Cusco, Puno and Arequipa, so no I wasn’t completely ignorant.

My trip lasted 11 days, and an obvious conclusion that I came up with is that Peru is just so vast of a country that you will get frustrated that you just can’t see everything, even in two weeks. My highest  frustration being to not be able to see Iquitos and the Amazon jungle. However, I think I can safely say that I feel absolutely blessed to have had the chance to experience it and that as opposed to other places I have been to, I am sure it is not the first and last time I go there. Instead, I think that Peru will be this kind of destination that you discover and rediscover differently each time. So the plan is, I get better at Spanish and tentatively plan another trip in a couple of years, and why not in another South American country. As a side note, I have never been particularly interested by South America as a continent. Peru gave me the excitement to learn more about this part of the world, its history, its culture and traditions. More than that, I think it showed me how wrong I was to not have experienced South America earlier. The music and the culture of fun and lightness itself is mind-blowing. At random music gatherings on the streets or public places, you simply feel that times stops.

Without further due, here are reviews of the cities I have visited in Peru, the most memorable landmarks, yummiest restaurants, and off the beaten track destinations.

DISCLAIMER: There is no Matchu Pitchu in this review. For several reasons, I have not been to the Inca Citadel. First and foremost, the number of tourists that go there daily makes it feel like a highly unexclusive place. From people I have met, it seems like tourists can barely move on site with such a big crowd. Secondly, we realized that Southern Peru had so much more remote, quite sceneries, that it would be a shame to trade it for Machu Pichu, just because it is claimed to be THE landmark of Peru. Another reason is the very high cost. Of all the monuments I have visited in the world, all categories included, Machu Pichu was the most expensive. Angkor Wat in Cambodia is equally impressive and was only 20 $. Machu Pichu is 44 $, but that is not all. You will have to pay around 200 $ for a round trip from Cusco or Ollaytantambo to Aguas Clients, spend the night there (extra $ for the night)+ pay the bus to get to Machu Pichu, to be flooded in a tide of tourists. No thanks.

LIMA:

It has been a long time I haven’t had such a crush on a city. But Lima is truly a highly likable city. I have been there in November, when the weather was the sweetest, hot then breezy, breezy than warm. This altering weather was very pleasant. On the other hand, I was told by several people that Lima is almost covered with grey clouds almost all year long (except from November through January), and that people rarely see blue sky. Bottom line is that we were lucky to be in such a pleasant time. Besides the wonderful weather, Lima is geographically impressive. The city is located on a cliff, overlooking the pacific ocean, I can only let you imagine the beautiful views that you could get from almost all parts of the city. My favorite remains the view from Miraflores, the bourgeois-boheme quarters of Lima. Filled with lush gardens and green spaces, posh buildings and gourmet eateries, Lima has all the comfort and the entertainment one needs to have to be happy (yes, I know, very objective), but I truly projected myself living an as an expat in Lima so don’t blame me I already pictured my life there. I bet it would be very charming.

 

 

• Gamarra: This is THE place to go if you are looking for cheap and trendy clothes. Don’t get me wrong, I was not looking for shopping in Peru, but my luggage got lost by the stupid airline I was taking, and I did not want to burn my nerves trying to get in touch with the company and eventually know where my luggage was. So I just took a shortcut and went directly to buy some clothes. For around 60 dollars, I bought countless “branded” t-shirt, pants, socks and panties. Also, aside from the shopping experience, Gamarra is great  in that it gives you a real insight on local’s life. There, you will find absolutely no foreigner. You can eat ananas on the street, converse with shopkeepers and enjoy some street music. Gamarra is very messy and unorganized, in sharp contrast with fancy Miraflores or Barranco.

 

• Barranco: this is the artist’s headquarters (or at least it used to be). Barranco is comparable in many regards to Montmartre in Paris, where you’ve got all the artists gotha and trendy places located.

 

• Restaurant Saqra: a great place to eat very creative derivative of local food. Highly recommending the causa con pulpo, one of the most uncommon combination of food. Ever. It is mashed potato with fresh avocado, and octopus (can you believe?). Oh and ceviche, you’ve got to try ceviche. Delicious raw white fish marinated in garlic. Do not abuse though, it can get bitter pretty easily.

 

• Museum Mario Testino: Mario Testino is one of the most renown and respected personalities in Peru. In fact, I realized that so many successful personalities from different fields are from Peru, and Mario Testing is one of them. This small but very pleasant museum has three different component. One gallery that groups the recent celebrities photographies that Testino recently shot, and those include of course models, singers and actors. The second gallery (my very favorite), is one that exhibits the “Alta Moda” series, a project that Testino worked on for around five years and that showcases beautiful portraits of Peruvians living in the mountains, with beautiful traditional clothing. A real wonder. The third one is a series of portrait of Lady Diana, which is until today one of Testino’s most celebrated work. The museum is really small, a visit will take approximately 30 to 45 minutes. There is a very nice gift shop where you can get postcards of the “Alta Moda” series, and some other fun things. 
  

  

  
• La Calenderia Del Peru: this restaurant offers a really nice show of Peruvian traditional dances. It is kind of touristy- but most tourists coming from South American countries on corporate dinners. The ambiance is great and the dances are full of energy. Very entertaining for someone like me who enjoys local folklore, dances, and typical outfits.

 

• Lima City Center: so unfortunately for us, our visit to Lima has coincided with the APEC forum, with all the “important” personalities being in town, the city center was closed to tourist, and consequently, we couldn’t see Lima’s plaza de armas. Not a big deal though, I think we got plenty of Plazas de Armas during our trip in other cities. We found a free walking tour offered by the municipality of Lima near the place San Martin.

 

• Rasson Restaurant: great restaurants in downtown Lima. It is a trendy place that serves local food. Favorites include a starter of mushrooms marinated in a special sauce, quinoa with avocado and salmon, and salmon ceviche.

 

• Chocolate Museum: not much to see here. Small place with a little exhibition on chocolate fabrication. There is also a little workshop on how to make your own chocolate but was too crowded so I did not bother to try.

 

• Creole Restaurant: I do not remember its name, but this restaurant is located near Starbucks in Barranco. Not to be assimilated to this multinational, this restaurant is owned by the same family over three generations. The family is black-peruvians, descendants of slaves that were brought to South America. The one memory that I will remember from it is a black-peruvian singing songs about his ancestries like I never heard somebody sing before, a very peculiar voice and some very particular energy.

CUSCO:

Cusco in itself does not have what it usually takes to entertain me. Namely museums and cultural life. BUT, the aura of the city is such that I truly enjoyed myself despite not having any of these. Wandering around the streets, watching locals interact with tourists (truly harassing them), and basically just walking was enough. Warning: even though you think you will be okay with altitude you won’t. Especially when you come from Lima through a flight, it is going to be brutal to go from one climate to another with absolutely no transition. You will get over it very quickly with some pills against altitude that you can get in any pharmacy in the city.

• Plaza de Armas: Cuzco’s plaza de armas is certainly one of the most beautiful I have seen in Peru. At night, it looks absolutely stunning as all the elevations around the city get lighted up. You can also go there when the sun sets, this is when they take Cuzco’s flag down, with a little ceremony (and this happens every day). Fun fact, Cuzco’s flag is a rainbow flag. We were initially thinking what the heck is the LGBT flag doing everywhere in this city. We only later realized after some research that it was Cuzco’s emblem and a theory says that the LGBT movement got inspired from it.

 

• San Pedro Market: a local market where you can find absolutely everything form quinoa to flowers, ponchos, a million kinds of papas (potatoes) and a several juice stand. Definitely worth visiting.

OLLAYTANTAMBO: to go or not to go to Machu Pichu, that was our existential question taking the road to Ollaytantambo from Cuzco. The ride was fun, we went to a place where we had to wait for vans to fill in so that they would hit the road. I just love these kind of experiences because you get to observe different kind of interactions: a grandma teasing her baby grand-kid, the driver getting stopped twice by a policemen…

Arrived at Ollaytantambo, we found this little village so nice and charming that we decided to stay and to sacrifice Machu Pichu, ESPECIALLY because we passed by the train station that goes to Aguas Calientes and saw a huge crowd of tourists, so we unequivocally decided that we were not going. Instead, we had a nice day climbing the ruins of Ollaytantambo (granaries and fortress), and did two hours of horseback riding that took us to a very sophisticated Inca agricultural area with impressive field terraces.

PUNO: If it wasn’t for Taquile Island, I think that anybody in their right mind will shoot themselves in the head if they had to spend more than one night in Puno. It is the ugliest, most indifferent city that I have seen in while. Lake Titicaca is so beautiful, and yet, Puno is disappointing. The city is fairly new so there is no particular history, and this is why the buildings are so unappealing, dirty and unpainted.

• Taquile Island: it is very easy to get to Taquile Island. You just have to get to the port and book a boat. We had a very nice guide that was motivated by a truly genuine desire to share the culture of his island with foreigners. Taquile Island is one of a kind. It is a pristine place, untouched by globalization, where the people cultivate the land that has been inherited from their fathers. The view on Lake Titicaca is breathtaking and you can see Bolivia from the island.

 

• Uros Floating Island: it is really floating and not only a name. Uros is a series of multiple human-made floating islands. Each island has its leaders that is elected by the families of the island on a year mandate. People speak Aymara, an old Inca langage.
  

  

  

  

  

  

  

  

AREQUIPPA: Arequipa was the last city on the trip. We had planned to stay south so it was only natural to stop by Arequipa. Generally pleasant but not the kind of city where I would have stayed more than two days. Arequipa is filled with history and colonial buildings. It is also located in an impressive geographic spot, surrounded by volcanos, one of them being called Misty, or the Mister.

• Mundo Alpaca: very informative place to see the process of how Lama and Alpaca wool is transformed into clothing. And most fun part of the visit- YOU GET TO SEE LAMAS AND ALPACAS, which are now my favorites animals- no kidding.

 

• La Petite Française: a crêperie where I had the best caramel beurre sale crepe of my life- so good that I ate two (do not judge me). Also, good atmosphere where it felt just like home. The staff and the owner where very chatty and friendly.

 

• Mario Vargas Llosa Museum: by far the most interesting place of Arequipa to me. The museums celebrates the life of Nobel Prize winner, writer Mario Vargas Llosa. I am a big museums enthusiast and this one will definitely be on my list of all times favorites. A little downfall was that the guide only spoke Spanish, and for a rudimentary spanish speaker like me, who still wants to understand everything, it is very frustrating. The museums is located in the house where Llosa was born, and takes visitors to all the major steps in his very busy life, the troubled relationship of his parents, his love stories, his journey into writing and his political engagement. The museum is very interactive and as you go along to different steps of his lifetime, you are introduced to thematic rooms with brilliant decor that explains particular steps in his life through a short-movie, a short documentary and other medias.

 

• Zig Zag Restaurant: a fusion restaurant that takes its inspiration in Inca cuisine and volcano inspired ingredients. The architecture itself is very rocky and puts visitors in the mood to experience different kind of minerals and creative fusion of ingredient. Definitely a must-try.

 

• Colca Canyon: I am still ambivalent as to wether this day trip to Colca Canyon was worth it. The highlight of it was that we were going to see condors, but there was absolutely no guarantee. So we went there, and there was no condors, big disappointment. On the other hand, the highlight of this journey was a big herd of Lamas and Alpacas- of all sizes and shapes- everywhere- and many of them. The journey also included beautiful landscapes.
  

  

And here is the non-exhaustive review for my favorite places in Peru- for as far as I can remember because my trip was in November 2016 and that I am a terrible procrastinator.

NB: This review was written from a hotel in Amman. My thinking is, if I do not get closure from Peru, I won’t be able to move on with this trip to Jordan. Next review and thoughts on Jordan will dig deeper on the history and politics of Jordan, because of the nature of the work that brings me here. I am thinking of doing it in series- we will see.

 

Barcelona, Ciutat Comtal:

Barcelona is widely known for its countless monuments: churches, parks and museums are scattered all around the beautiful sunny city. Prior to being there, I was mentally ready for a sightseeing marathon, then I realized something: aimlessly meandering around the Gothic streets and narrow alleys is in itself one of the most winsome things to do in Barcelona.

Of course, this is not the only thing I did during my trip; eating, museuming, and beaching were also part of the plan. I must say though before I start reviewing my favorite places: there is definitely something about coastal Mediterranean cities that makes the air lighter, the time slower, and the mood warmer. The atmosphere and the people are so loose that it entails everybody to follow. Maybe it is the weather? …which makes me think about this very obsolete idea of environmental determinism; that the weather of a particular area impacts the behavior of its people. However debatable that is, I think nobody will deny that a sun, a blue clear sky and a fresh breeze definitely has a positive impact on people’s mood.

My journey starts in the early morning, somewhere around Placa de Tetuan. Stubbornly unyielding towards the idea of not taking the subway. I just thought it was a shame to go underneath the ground when the weather was so beautiful. After over an hour of walking and realizing that I won’t be finding my way to La Boqueria, I finally gave up and took the subway, which is smooth and efficient.

La Boqueria market, located in the famous Las Ramblas, is a popular market where can be found a myriad of food: fruits, candies, dates, nuts, fish…

At a fairly reasonable price (everything being relative, this is Europe, right), you can get fresh fruit which will act as a healthy breakfast (the one I didn’t have at the hostel). I am very fond of markets, so we spent a moment wandering around. One has to admit, the market  is so aesthetically on point: everything looks so appetizing, the colors are enthralling and the smells mouthwatering.

It has to be said that La Boqueria is clearly a touristic market, not the kind where locals shop for groceries, but it is still a lovely place to go to, despite the masses of tourists.

In front of La Boqueria, you can find the enticing Museum of Erotism. It wasn’t actually planned for us to enter, but my curiosity was tenacious, further encouraged by a transgender in Marilyn Monroe’s iconic white dress, calling people to come in.

Inside, you can find all things related to eroticism from around the world: porn movies of the early 20th century (both peculiar and entertaining)  gadjets, erotic paintings or odes to international sex symbols such as the sensual Marilyn Monroe.

There is something I really enjoy doing when I travel, visiting the municipal museum of the city, the one that goes through history, popular culture and every other aspects of a metropolis. I followed on my map the way to Barcelona City History Museum from Las Ramblas. However, after half an hour of walking, crowned by finding the place in question, I realized that the museum was exclusively about medieval history, which is a part of history that leaves me completely apathetic.The walk was worth it though, Barcelona’s streets and alleys are exquisite.

We stopped by a buffet-tapas-place for lunch. For those who don’t understand the concept of tapas (like me before going to Spain), it is more or less like some petit four or amuse gueule, except lots of them, for lunch or dinner, most of the time served with alcohol (and don’t ask me to expound on that, I am an alcohol-benighted).

Next stop was the unavoidable Sagrada Familia. Well, I have to say that while I am not particularly sensitive to churches, this one struck me by its refinement and elegance. It is a blend of gothic and ethereal elements. From some angles, it looked like a fairytale castle, and from others, seemed like a very pompous Gothic monument. The church was under renovation (but still accessible, though we were reluctant to go inside, which is even more breathtaking – or so we were told), so we wandered around the park in front of the church and then took the bus to Parc Guell.

Parc Guell is certainly one of the main attractions of the city, and I can understand why. The parc is like anyone you will see, or saw. It clearly seems like a simulacrum of Gaudi’s imagination, into the real world. The mosaics, the unsual colors, the Greek columns, all those elements that would normally not go with each other, complement just fine in dreamy picture.

The end of our visit to Par Guell coincided with the final game of FC Barcelona at the Chapion’s League. The city got all crazy, and even crazier when the team won the game. People started hugging in the streets, partying  together, and displaying their jubilance.

Two other destinations highly recommendable are the Chocolate Museum and of course, the beach.

Chocolate Museum is a fun, interactive place where you can learn about the history of chocolate, which, it claims, entered Europe through Barcelona (same thing was heard in Vienna, but what do I know). The museum shop sells all kind of chocolate by-products, such as a horrible-soap-tasting honey and cheese white chocolate, or a peculiar tasting chocolate olive oil.

Stopped at another tapas for lunch (I am definitely a fan, which kind of irritated my co-traveler).

Barcelonata beach is close to the city, highly accessible, and connected to numerous café and restaurants. It is a fun, relaxing way to spend a part of the afternoon. The sun is just perfect, not too close nor too far. Ideal to feel warm but not to calcine. I am a blue-sky enthusiast, and I feel like no matter what I say anyways, I will never laud enough the Barcelonan weather.

Barcelona is definitely the kind of cities that you visit more than once. And given the short distance from where I live, I feel like I am definitely going to visit again and again. The city is so appealing and there are still so many places to see: Picasso Museums (3h queue, you’d better wake up early), Perfume Museum, thousands of beautiful parcs…

So until we meet again, Barcelona, please keep your air light, your sky blue and your sun smooth.

Dreams of Trespass: Tales Of A Harem Girlhood by Fatima Mernissi

Fatima Mernissi is certainly one of the most renown Moroccan authors, sociologists and public figures. Her writings touch upon diverse range of subject such as patriarchy, sexuality or Moroccan society. She is a fervent feminist and has struggled for women’s rights in Morocco for the last three decades.

Born in Morocco in 1940 when the country was under French protectorate, she has witnessed major changes in her country, struggling for independence while adapting to Western standard and the birth of the country’s double identity.

This is the first book by Mernissi I ever read, and certainly not the last, as I find her insight and views extremely bright and relevant. I read Dreams of Trespass in French, but the book was initially written in English, which I think is a formidable thing because it makes available to a wider audience a candid yet sharp account of a childhood in the very complex and codified environment the Harem is.

A harem: noun. (in former times) the separate part of a Muslim household reserved for wives, concubines, and female servants.

To the Western eye, a harem can seem like some kind of prison where men keep their women from the outside world. Even in Muslim society, Harems are relegated to being an obsolete and bygone practice, which is very legitimate if you ask me.

However, Dreams of Trespass is so beautifully written that it brings a bit of nostalgia and smoothly brings the reader to another era whith distinct colors, smells, and sounds. Through a poetic language and a candid spirit, Mernissi describes her life as a child, the hierarchy in the Harem, the rituals and celebrations and all kind of intriguing issues related to her environment.

The author had lots of questioning and she therefore was an acute observer of the dynamics of her environment. Besides very delightful tales of Hamam stories, beauty recipes, popular beliefs, and entertainment with means at hand, she relates the comfort and backing her mother provided. Although having been raised in a conservative environment, her mother had enough insight to wish something better to her daughter than being confined to the walls of a Harem, as opposed to other women (aunts or cousins) of the family, who were actually happy with their lots and didn’t expect anything else from life than to be a good wife and mother because, they tought, that was their destiny as women. Her mother wanted her to travel the world, to be educated and smart, to speak many languages and to find love, which I think is exquisitely revolutionary for that time.

I highly recommend the book. It is entertaining and informative, and makes you wonder about the processes from which people’s mentalities and beliefs change from an era to another. Superb read.

Rome, the (not so) Eternal City:

The Eternal City, the City of the Seven Hills… One could go on and on about the inspiring appellations so fondly given to Rome. Dazzling shootings of landmarks in movies such as la Dolce Vita with the devastatingly beautiful Anita Ekberg or Roman Holiday with the graceful Audrey Hepburn, or more recently Eat, Pray, Love staring shining Julia Roberts  further exacerbate the myth of Rome. Yet, Rome has changed. Rome is not as glorious as it was, or at least as it is depicted in movies, books or collective psyche.

Oh don’t misunderstand me. I am not saying Rome is not beautiful (I implied it, true). What I am saying is that the dirt and the smell of uring scattered all around the city make it hard to enjoy the city as much as we expect.

Expectations. It’s all about that word. It goes like this: I don’t travel to the cleanest places on earth nor is it my criteria for destinations. The thing is when you go to India for instance, you know already how it is going to be: beauty in chaos and disorder. So you are mentally prepared and when you actually go on the field, nothing comes as a surprise. Similarly, when you go to Rome, you expect symmetry, hygiene, order.

Now that I think about it, I guess I might have been dismissive through this very preconceived idea of Rome, that as being in Europe, it should necessarily be clean and ordered.

Nevertheless, I enjoyed my short stay (a little more than 24 hours), and managed to see some very interesting things.

So now comes, in order of visit, the landmarks and places I’ve had the pleasure to see.

It has to be stated that we walked extensively; first because th weather was very beautiful, and second because there are only two subway lines, and I don’t really believe in buses. So first thing that was done after checking into the hotel was to take the subway (big mistake) to go to Trevi fountain area. But in Rome, subway stations, even if they have the name of the place you want to go to, are so far away that it would have been all the same to not take the subway at all.

Anyways we arrived at the Trevi station, which is as smelly and dirty as the Termini one, from which we took the subway. We had to ask for our way several times. Contrary to what I thought, the Trevi Fountain is located inside very narrow street as opposed to how it is depicted in movies. To my greatest disappointment, the fountain was under renovation. I didn’t take any pictures and I was ranting my head off. We had dinner at a restaurant around the Trevi area, which I found to be too touristic and which restaurants are not any better than any italian food somewhere else in the world. I bought a map of the city for 3euro. It wasn’t very detailed, though it helped me during the whole trip. I found it very easy to find my way in Rome so the map and my feet were the only tool I used to go from a place to another.

Here is a map of Rome with my journey (the day after the diner at the Trevi area) starting at Termini station (East) all the way up from Piazza della Republica to Trinitta dei Monti and so forth. Walking along Tavere River, going to the Vatican, dining in Trastavere and on the way back stopping by the majestic Colosseo by night (South East), and up to Termini.

Piazza della Republica: located 10 min walking from the termini station. A beautiful place revolving around the fountain of the Naiads.

Piazza di Spagna: A very very very pretty place hosting the famous stairs leading to the Trinità dei Monti (which also was under renovation).

 

Piazza del Popolo and Da Vinci Museum: another of the many “piazzas” of Rome. I really enjoyed the little Da Vinci Museum very near. Informative and entertaining, it relates the story and inventions of a man who mastered all the fields he got into.

Tavere River: How enjoyable it is to walk along the Tavere river on such a beautiful day, all the way to the Vatican.

Vatican City: I didn’t get into the Saint Peter Church because the queue was unbelievably long and also because I was more keen to see the Sixtine Chapel, the beautiful Micheal Angelo’s masterpiece. The ticket included the Vatican museum (which was to my taste, repetitive and not particularly entertaining)

Trastavere: Very nice area for dining. Not touristy, which makes the experience more authentic. I had the best anchovy pizza of my life in a restaurants name I can’t remember (sorry).

The Colosseo: On the way back (yeah not done), we walked around the majestic Colosseo. It is also under renovation (it wasn’t my day I’m telling you). Seems like Rome is so ancient that it has to be very-well taken care of so that it doesn’t fall into ruins.

Rome is pleasant. Rome is beautiful. But don’t go to Rome expecting a beautiful AND clean city. I guess the big mistake that I did is to go straight from Munich to Rome (making the shock even bigger from the cleanest city every to…well).  It is certainly not the most beautiful city I’ve seen in Europe, but quite a charming destination if it is on your way.

PS: Rome is certainly not representative of Italy, which is a fact acknowledged by Italians themselves.

And this is the end of a very biased and distorted review of the (not so) Eternal City.

Munich, the World City with Heart:

For some unknown reason, Germany has never been on my travel plans. I always thought of it as a cold, unfriendly country, where there is nothing to see anyways because it has all been rebuilt from scratch after WWII. And if my brother didn’t happen to study there, I would forever have missed the opportunity of visiting the charming city that Munich is.

View of Marienplatz from the tower of the new city hall (4 euro elevator to the tower)

Munich is probably one of the few city which are suitable for both tourism and for living, it has been ranked by several magazines as the most livable city in the world. Its out-of-time historical center, its little pastel picturesque streets, its blend of past and present gives the city a distinct atmosphere found in no other.

The city has numerous landmarks, historical sites, accessible by walking or through the very smooth transport system (Uban and Sban, urban subway and suburban subway), buses, or taxis (for the laziest, and wealthiest for that matter). Munich counts over 40 museums ranging from subjects such as geology to the history of potato (yes, I’m not joking). As you can guess, I haven’t visited them all, because I didn’t have enough time and because I wasn’t particularly interested by fields such hunting and fishing for instance. I visited few of them though and had some crushes. Museums in Munich are very well thought. Price is not really expensive (ranging from 0 to 10 euros) and audioguides are usually free.

Brace yourselves, I am going to expound the very best places in Munich (aka, all the places I visited), from the very best to the best.

PS: As a matter of fact as hard as I try to find a negative experience to recount, I cannot manage to find any. Yes, that is how great Munich is.

Munich Stadtmuseum: The museum tales the story of the city from the early beginning with Henry the Lion (Lions being the emblem represented in coat of arms of Munich) to the capital of national socialism (nazism). It goes on to the Olympics held in Munich in 1975, presents collections of old photographs, holds a scary exhibition about puppets and introduces visitors to emblematic figures that contributed to the renown of the city such as Lord Rudford (Benjamin Thompson).

I found the museum to be very informative and well-documented. Its is so entertaining and interesting that you end up your little visit (2 to 3 hours at least) with comprehensive information on diverse aspects of the city. I am a fan of museums in general and I am always eager to visit municipal museums exposing the history of a given  city, especially when the museum is well-tought.

Dachau Concentration Camp, Memorial, and Museum: I was really surprised to find out that the Dachau concentration camp (accessible by Sban and bus) is not particularly focused on the suffering of Jews but incorporates the stories and the pain of all the people who were once interned at the gloomy concentration camp (soviets, political dissidents, homosexuals, disabled, beggars, tziganes…). I have been very pleased to find out that the place pays tribute to everyone who suffered from the dark times of Nazism. As a side note, I always wondered why and how the Jewish identity has appropriated the genocide as being their very own hardship and misery and used it as a result to attract the sympathy of the world, while in reality thousands of other minority experienced the same suffering. Dachau concentration camp is a place surrounded by a very solemn aura for some obvious reason. Going through the gas chamber and the crematory leaves one with a bitter and angry feeling at the humanity as a whole, and questions as to how could such a tragedy happen and how could the human nature be so vicious. The museum is of very informative. Numerous documents can be found relating the rise of Nazism and the stories and daily lives of Dachau’s prisoners.

Munchen Residenz: This grandiose palace once inhabited by Bavarian kings is to some extent comparable to Versailles in France minus the gardens. The audioguides will walk you through the numerous chambers of the flamboyant palace and the treasury (collection of crowns, jewels, tableware, personal items of Bavarian Kings). With a combined ticket, you can have access to the Cuvilliès Theatre, the little yet tasteful personal opera of king-electors.

Toy Museum: Little museum inside the old Munich city hall, the little fairytale-like castle in Marienplatz. Filled with toys from present and past, from Barbies to toy soldiers, scary dolls to little trucks, it will make you wonder at how means of entertainment change from one generation to another. In a decade, you will probably find phones and tablets filling the contemporary section of the toy museum as being children’s sole leisure tools.

Rock Museum: Apparently the highest museum in the world. It is also the smallest (no official data, just me). It is located inside the Olympic Tower, at 291m altitude. From the top you can enjoy a fine view of the city (although I prefer the view from new city hall’s tower). The collection is very rudimentary but it is still a great initiative. You can find among other thing an old jukebox that took us ages to work, newspapers extract of rock stars anecdotes, a piano belonging to Elton John… And that is about it. The story behind the museum is a rock lover who accumulated a collection of items through the years and thought of creating a museum to share these items with other rock lovers. The municipality of Munich gracefully proposed to exploit the space available at the Olympic tower, making the museum the highest in the world.

BMW Museum: If there is something I learnt in life is that you are always disappointed when you have great expectations. From the BMW museum, I expected a history of the people who made the brand what it is, some anecdotes and stories nowhere else to be found. Instead I found a collection of old and new cars and a bunch of technical details about cars concepts, designs and engines. I am not saying the museum isn’t interesting. I am just saying it didn’t meet my expectations in terms of content. In what concerns its design and layout, it is typically what you can expect from a renown and prosperous multinational company.

Best for last, they say. The highlight of my trip has been, without an ounce of hesitation, the representation of Madama Butterfly by Giaccomo Puccini at Munich Opera House. Besides the moving and penetrating representation, the Opera House is of exceptional beauty. Some might consider as blasphemy, but I even think it is more elegant than Garnier Opera in Paris. I found the contrasts of red and gold are more studied and give the place it a polished and elegant look.

I also LOVED the Unterfahrt Jazzclub. A blissful musical moment of smooth jazz that will take your soul away.

In what concerns food, I haven’t really had the time to taste any real german specialty, altering between sandwiches and coffee. Nevertheless, I enjoyed Apple Strudel (which is not typically german, but Vienese, I was told) and pretzel (not german either, delicious but very salty).

Munich is one of the most beautiful European cities I have seen so far. It is a place where past and present blend gracefully, creating a harmony rarely seen in such historically loaded cosmopolitan cities.

Maleficent and Frozen, or how Disney redefines the True Love’s Kiss:

The time has finally come for Disney to realize that children of the 21st century will not be fooled anymore by corny love-at-the-first-sight stories. See, Disney movies have shaped the perception of love of a number of little girls and has, among other things, reinforced (if not created)  the image of the charming prince on a white horse.

When you reach your twenties, you realize that there are no prince charming, no white horse, and most importantly…  no love at the first sight. Also, you feel a little bit dumb to have ever believed that, like a Disney princess, you would meet a guy who will love you instantly (and that you will love back) and will protect you from the evils of this world and most probably wake you up with a true love’s kiss (Yes, because although you met him three minutes ago, it is indeed true love).

It might look like I am ranting…Well, I am not. I will forever ever after remain a fan of Disney movies, old and new, regardless of the unreachable ideals it presents. I can’t help it, it is stronger than me: I will always be crying when Prince Philip kisses Aurora, when Snow White wakes up or when Mufaza dies. However, although I love the classics, I am particularly delighted by the fresh wind blowing on the newest Disney movies.

Besides the fact that it is of exceptional quality ( narrative, colors, designs, songs…), Maleficent and Frozen hold one fundamental element not to be missed: the traditional true love’s kiss (between the princess and the guy she met three minutes ago)  is turned upside down.

I remember the first time I watched Frozen, my first reaction when Anna wants to get married to Prince Hans of the Southern Isles was  “Wait, they just met! Disney is doing it again”. But they didn’t. Anna realizes that she cannot marry a man about whom she knows nothing, just because “her heart” tells her he is the one and that it is therefore true love. Instead, she goes on a journey with Kristoff to find her sister. The true love’s kiss that is going to put an end to her curse is neither from Prince Hans nor from Kristoff, it comes from her sister, who throughout the whole movie shows how much she loves her by trying to protect her. How she does it is debatable but that is not the point. She loves her sister and the emphasis is put on this movie of love between flesh and blood.

Similarly, Maleficent is the story of a fairy who is compromised by the evil of this world. She switches to the dark side when she is disappointed by the greed of man and decides to curse the daughter of King Stephen. Throughout the years, she will get closer to Aurora to better hurt her, but she will realize how much she loves and cares for the young girl. The curse still hits the princess and she will be engaged into a deep sleep that can only be canceled by a “true love’s kiss”. Maleficent cursed her that way because she thinks “there are no such thing as true love”. Surprisingly, she will be the one to awaken the princess with a true love’s kiss. Prince Philip didn’t succeed in awakening the princess because obviously, they were not in love. Yes, both are good-looking people but that is not enough to create the love that is going to reverse the curse (at the opposite of the classic Sleeping Beauty story).

The new generation of Disney movies are far from being pessimistic about love. At the opposite, it focuses on a more realistic and attainable kind of love relationships which are based on respect, trust, affinity (unlike the previous movies where pre-requisite for love was being a pretty princess and a handsome prince). Moreover, it also puts emphasis on friendship and family love, something that was never done before. Disney therefore presents true love in different kind of relationships: between two sister, between a godmother and her goddaughter… simply because love, through all its forms, matters.

Boracay Paradise, Philippines:

There is the kind of travel that awakens your adventurous soul and that makes you strive for adrenalinous experiences, but there is also the kind of travel where you are introduced to the charming concept of  “doing nothing”. And that was exactly the holy purpose of my stay in Boracay Philippines.

In a world where fast is a religion, where schedules are a well established tradition and when one’s body and mind are exasperated by the frenzy of the modern era, “doing nothing” is a blessing, a gift of God, a priceless opportunity. And what a better place to let this concept blossom and given free reign than Boracay?

The island is located 315km South of Manila, the capital of the Philippines. It is accessible from Kalibo or from Caticlan airport which are located few miles away in other islands, as there is no airport in Boracay itself. The little piece of land is only 10.3 square km and is shaped as a dog bone, with a length of 7km and a smallest width of 1km.

Starting the 18th of April, Air Asia has launched new connection from Kuala Lumpur to Kalibo airport, which makes the trip to Boracay more accessible and less hectic, the other options being either to spend  lots of money on local flights or lots of time in countless buses. The weather is tropical, with rainy season starting in mid-June until November. The sunny season is from November up to June as the island hosts two seasons only.

Before the trip, I arranged my transfer to the island with My Boracay Guide, a tour operator that organizes activities in the island. Their logistics was perfect as they were waiting for me at the airport with a signboard and my name on it. They directed me to the bus (1h45 trip) that was to take us to the jetty, where we had to take a little boat (15min) to get to Boracay, where they would directly make the transfer to the hotel. I booked my stay at MNL Hostel, a charming little place 5min to the White Beach and 2min from Bulabog Beach.

The hostel offers countless opportunities for solo travelers to make new friends from all around the world, and frequently organizes events for people to get together. Although I made some really nice friends, my main goal was more to relax, meditate and “listen to my bones” as we say in Arabic.  While walking on the beach, you are approached by a number of locals proposing a number of activities: beach sports (jet ski, diving, para sailing…), expeditions to other islands, horse riding… You are also going to be approached by ladies proposing massage, braiding, tattoos… I got my hair braided, which I thought was really cool and really appropriate as a beach look.

The White Beach offers some really splendid sunsets. Especially when it is not too cloudy or rainy, the sky offers some picturesque landscapes that one can spend a lifetime ( or a little less) contemplating.

 My review of Boracay wouldn’t be complete without mentioning how Filipinos are incredibly friendly, helpful and outgoing people. Some of my thoughts also go to the environment. I believe that with the development of massive tourism into the island, the fauna and flora in Boracay is at a critical turning point, and lots of efforts have to be deployed to preserve the beauty of the island.

Here are my favorites from Boracay, which I think was a destination of taste. It might not be the best island in the world as it was claimed by Travel and Leisure Magazine, but it is for sure an outstanding island.

– Epic Boracay: a trendy restaurant located on the white beach, offering what they call “beach cuisine”, basically big fat burgers and barbecues, but presented in a classy and refined way

–D’Mall: Okay, everyone was complaining about naming this place “a mall” because it is not in  a big closed structure and because there are no famous brands. But hey, haven’t you heard of the concept of open malls? Plus, when you come to an island, shopping (for franchises I mean) is the last thing you think about. I thought D’Mall was a lovely place, offering lots of little shops selling local artifacts and souvenirs (T-shirts, magnets, shells…). You can find plenty of home interior items to give your own place a little taste of Boracay Island.

– Puka Beach (Shell Beach): this beach is far less frequented than the White Beach area, and gives you the wonderful and intoxicating feeling of being alone in the island.

– Kasbah: a restaurant located on white beach side on Station 1 offering North African and Middle Easter cuisine (Yes, I enjoy traveling but I am also homesick :D)

– Maymay braiding: one of my favorite Filippino, she did my hair, along with her friend Nene. She is friendly, funny, and talented. She learnt all her braiding skills from YouTube, which I think is remarkable. I believe braiding is a must while on Boracay, especially when you have non-compliant and un-cooperative hair.